|1. Start thread towards hook bend and wrap about 1/4" to
start thread base.
|2. Tie in 1-2 small clumps of Finn Raccoon. Here I added 2 to
fill out the tips. Use a fine comb to remove the underfur first.
Save the underfur for dubbing or other uses. Make 2-3 loose
wraps to position the tail before securing it with several tighter
wraps to lock it down on top of the shank. Don't let it spin.
|3. Take a 4-5" piece of heavy mono (I used 30#) and crease in the
|4. Place the mono on either side of the shank and under the tail.
Position it with a couple of light wraps covering 1/8"-1/4" of the
mono to keep it from spinning. Use Zap-a-Gap or head cement to
lock it down. Trim the tags off either end of the mono. This loop
will help keep the tail from fouling the hook.
|5. Tie in 3-4 strands of Krystal flash. Place the flash on one side of
the shank and tie down in the middle. Fold the remaining flash over
to the other side and secure the batch with several tight wraps. I like to offset the strands so the ends aren't square.
|6. Directly behind the tail and on top of the flash tie in one end of the Estaz. Estaz will provide a lot of action but tinsel chenille may work also. Wrap the thread to the eye and build a small lump a
little over 1/8" from the eye. Be sure not to crowd the eye if you plan on adding a weedguard.
|7. Tie in the eyes using your preferred method. I use Figure 8s with several wraps around the base of the eyes to help further secure them. Add a drop of Zap-a-Gap or head cement to secure.
|8. Move the thread behind the eyes and palmer the Estaz forward. As you make each wrap stroke the fibers to the rear to create a cleaner looking fly. Don't crowd the eyes. Make 2-3 wraps to lock
the body in place and trim the excess. Don't cut your thread!
|9. Stroke the body fibers and hold them in place. Make 6-12 wraps behind the eyes and slightly onto the fibers to hold them up and back away from the head.
|10. Let's add a weedguard! Take another piece of mono and crease it like before. Lay it over the shank with about 1/2" above the shank. Make several loose wraps to tighten the mono against the shank.
|11. Pull the mono down against the shank and put several more
wraps on top of it to lock it in place. Trim to desired size.
|12. Reverse the hook. If you don't have a rotary vise, use a half hitch to lock the thread while you remove the hook and flip it. Use your finger to hold the mono up. Make as many wraps as it takes to get the weedguard to stand up like you'd like. Make sure you
don't catch your finger on the hook! Position the guard like you want and use Zap-a-Gap to lock it in place.
|13. Flip the hook back over and admire your work!
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